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CRX Tech Pages

DX Rear Drum to Disc Brakes

Home | My CRX Specs | DX Rear Drum to Disc Brakes | Battery in the Trunk | MPFI Swap | B20/VTEC into CRX | GSR Gauge Cluster Swap | Chipping Your PM6 ECU

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Before discs.....

WARNING!:
IF YOU DO NOT THINK YOU ARE CAPABLE OF DOING ANY OF THESE HOW-TO'S, HAVE A CERTIFIED MECHANIC DO THE WORK AS I WILL NOT BE LIABLE FOR ANYONE'S MISTAKES MADE DURING ANY OF THESE HOW-TO'S.
 

    Here you will find information on stopping your DX Civic/CRX like a factory Si model. It is simple and pretty straight forward. Anyone with basic knowledge of cars should be able to do this swap just fine.
 
    One thing to note is that while tearing apart your under-body, be careful taking bolts out so they don't snap and leave you extremely angry. The best thing to do is to get an impact wrench for the bigger bolts and for the smaller bolts use a portable propane blowtorch. In some bolts there is a sort of plastic like liquid that loosens up the bolts when it's frozen into the threads and heated up.

Damn thats ugly!
drumtrailingarms.jpg
This is what it should look like after dropping the trailing arms out..

Parts List:
  • '90 Integra Trailing Arms W/Calipers attached(The whole assembly minus the control arms).
  • '90 Integra Proportioning Valve
  • '90 Integra Master Cylinder and Brake Booster(With these make sure you get NON-ABS parts or they might not work properly).
  • '91 Civic/CRX Si Stainless Steel Brake Lines
  • '91 Civic/CRX Si E-Brake cables
  • You will probably need new rotors and pads so get '90 Integra rear rotors.

Now, this list is fairly simple and should be easy to get at any junkyard provided there are Integras there not stripped already. You can however get trailing arms from an ABS integra but you must remove all the ABS parts. Basically, here was my situation, I live in Minnesota and there are alot of Redneck ass brain-dead morons so most junkyards are mostly domestic piles of dung. The trailing arms I found were ABS, no biggie, but they were in pretty bad shape and I had to get new loaded calipers, wheel bearings, dust shields, and trailing arm bushings. If your trailing arm bushings are bad, replace them. You can get a set for only like $30 from Energy Suspension but make sure you get alot of extra lube otherwise they will squeak after a while. I also decided to just go ahead and upgrade the disc's to Brembo drilled rotors all the way around along with the AEM performance pads. And make sure you read the instructions for the rotors as they are directional and is essential to the cooling process that slotted and drilled rotors go through.

When you go to buy the Integra MC and booster, just bring your Civic/CRX MC and booster, use it for your core charge, but don't say it's not the Integra MC and booster. This is what I did and the people at the local parts didn't say a word when I gave them my CRX MC and booster. Hopefully they won't question you! The two pieces came to a total of 263$ so that's not bad. Also, you'll want to upgrade to these parts anyway because first off, the Civic/CRX MC and booster won't have to work as hard because the Integra MC and booster is bigger, second, it's probably time for a change up anyway. I'm sure the reservoir is all gunked up; mine was.

'90 Integra Master Cylinder & Booster
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This is a pic of it installed.

The proportioning valve for the Integra is a perfect fit. I was reading around the net and have read that some people had trouble with the holes on the mounting bracket lining up and only being able to hold the valve on by one bolt. They must have gotten the wrong valve or something because I ordered my valve from the local Acura parts dealer and it worked perfect; lines fit perfect and mounting bracket lined up excellent.

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Proportioning valve at a weird angle..

Instructions:
  1. From inside the car, remove the center console cover around the E-Brake. This gives you access to the E-Brake cables and tensioner. Loosen the tensioner and remove the bracket.
  2. Now move to the outside of the car and jack up the car front and back(If you plan on messing with the front which you will since you have to put the new brake lines on).
  3. Remove the wheels and put them off to side out of the way.
  4. Remove the brake lines just where they enter the car. Use a 10 mm flare nut wrench.
  5. Now just take a good look at where the main bolts are that you need to remove. Should be toe arm, upper and lower control arms, and the 2 trailing arm bushing bolts. Impact wrench works good here.
  6. Once those bolts are off, pull your old dirty trailing arm assembly out. It is basically trash now.
  7. Now, get another person to hold the assembly up in the air while you bolt it back up as it will be very difficult and aggravating if you don't trust me.
  8. Make sure you torque all those bolts down to spec. They are all around 47 ft lbs.

trailarmdiagram.jpg

One problem I had with the new brake lines is that they come with new banjo bolts and they look good and clean but, if you have the old banjo bolts use those with new washers because as I was torquing the front down, the bastard head of the banjo bolt snapped right off not even at like 20 ft/lbs of torque. The old banjo bolts with new washers will work best I think.

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  1. Now you can attach your new stainless brake lines from the caliper to the fitting going into the car. With the Goodridges, it comes with new washers and banjo bolts.
  2. Do the same to the front of the car.
  3. Now after all that is attached and torqued down, move to the engine bay.
  4. Installing the proportioning valve is very simple. Its located on the left side of the engine bay and on the side of the strut tower. Looks like a spider in a way. 4 lines are going in one side and 2 out the other(can't miss it).
  5. You'll need a 10 mm flare nut wrench if you don't want to totally mess it up. Undo the lines, pull it out, put the Integra valve in, and screw the lines in tight.
  6. Now move to the right side of the engine and on the firewall. You'll see the plastic cup holding all the brake fluid which is the master cylinder and attached to that is the brake booster. You'll need to remove this from inside the car.
  7. Remove the 2 brake lines at the master cylinder. There is 4 nuts holding the brake booster on and a pin connecting the brake pedal to that. Take that assembly out and install the new one. NOTE: You will probably have to remove the intake manifold off and move it out of the way to get the new Integra booster on. The Integra booster is slightly bigger and if you some trouble getting the stock one out, You WILL have trouble getting the Integra booster in. See the Tips and Troubleshooting page for more in depth information.
  8. Connect the brake lines and now you can bleed your brakes. Refer to your trusty Haynes or Helms manual because thats the best way to do it.
  9. Before you really beat the hell out of your new brakes, get an alignment done first because after you have taken that whole rear end out, it's probably all out of whack.
  10. Now take it out and test them!

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Here is a backside shot of the rear discs...
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Unfortunately, I have spent over 1700$ so far in just getting parts to make this swap work properly. But this is of course Minnesota and no parts are in good enough condition. Even though it has been a hassle and a half to get this swap done, I would still do it again on another car if it was the case. It was a great learning experience and you have to research a little sometimes to get the right information on parts. I can tell you that I was quite a bit worried when I ordered all these parts that they wouldn't fit and they ended up working just fine so if you are going do this swap, buy exactly those parts above or E-Mail me with your question and Ill try to help.

How Much Money I Actually Spent.....

 

 

CRX HF Lower Control Arms

$27.70

HF Control Arm OEM Bushings

$110.97

'90 Integra Trailing Arms

$160.50

'90 Integra Rear Wheel Bearings

$205.60

'90 Integra Rotor Mud Guards L and R

$52.06

'90 Integra Trailing Arm Bushings

$34.86

Extra Formula 5 Pre-lube for Bushings

$16.85

'90 CRX Si E-Brake Cables

$66.60

'90 Integra Brembo Drilled Rotors

$108.11

'90 Integra AEM Brake Pads

$48.14

'90 Integra Loaded Rear Calipers

$263.77

Misc. Factory Bolts and Pins

$51.03

'90 CRX Si GoodRidge S.S. Brake Lines

$149.94

Misc. Screws

$2.30

'90 Integra Proportioning Valve

$145.90

'88 CRX DX Front Brembo Drilled Rotors

$131.44

'88 CRX DX AEM Brake Pads

$50.29

'90 Integra Brake Booster

$210.86

'90 Integra Master Cylinder

$52.17

'90 Integra MC Cap, Seal, Rod Seal

$51.96

TOTAL:

$1941.05